Date

Route Status

Asc. Time

Desc. Time

Climbers

20-6n

F

Solstice Peak

SE Ridge

1750m

N68°28’ W31°58’

PD-

2.5

1

RP, RF, LP, JT, PW, DH, NF, TS

21-6n

F

French’s Peak

S Ridge

1750m

N68°30’ W31°52’

AD-

5.5

4

LP, PW, DH, NF

21-6n

F

Citadel

E Ridge

2550m

N68°30’45" W31°57’55"

D+

9

7

RP, RF, JT, TS

23-6

F

The Bell N

E Ridge

1660m

N68°28’40" W31°54’26"

F

2.5

1

RP, JT

23-6

NR

The Bell S

S Face ("Bumble Bee")

1600m E

N68°28’ W31°54’

AD+

4

2

LP, NF

23-6

NR

Chisel (Buttress)

N Buttress ("Comes the Sea Bass")

N68°28’ W31°50’

TD-

5

2.5

RF, PW

24-6n

F

Sheridan Dark

S Face

2050m

N68°26’49" W31°53’37"

D-

3

4

RF, PW, NF, TS

24-6n

X

Sheridan Light

N Ridge

2000m E

N68°27’ W31°54’

RP, LP, JT, DH

24-6n

F

The Spire

E Face

2260m

N68°27’ W32°00’

PD+

2.5

1

RP, LP, JT, DH

26-6

F

The Congregation

E Ridge

1750m E

N68°30’ W31°55’

F

0.5

0.5

RP

26-6n

NRS

Icon Peak

N68°26’ W32°02’

F

2.5

1

LP, NF

26-6n

F

The Pulpit

S Face ("Shared Pleasures")

2110m ?

N68°30’24" W31°55’20"

AD+

4

3

RP, JT, PW, DH

27-6

NRS

The Pulpit

W Ridge ("Spiney’s Corner")

2110m ?

N68°30’24" W31°55’20"

TD-

3

1.5

RF, TS

1-7

NR

Haystook Buttress

"Santa’s Little Helper"

N68°31’ W31°48’

ED1

6.5

2.5

RF, PW

1-7

NR

Haystook Buttress

"Tony’s Slate"

N68°31’ W31°48’

ED1

6.5

2.5

JT, TS

1-7

F

Haystook N

W Ridge ("Deaf Man’s Nuisance")

1800m

N68°31’ W31°47’

D

8.5

4

DH, NF

1-7

NR

Haystook S

W Ridge

1750m E

N68°31’ W31°47’

D+

8.5

4

RP, LP

2-7n

F

Chalfoun Peak

W Face

1660m

N68°29’ W31°46’

F

2

1

LP, NF

2-7n

X

Chisel 2

N Ridge

N68°28’ W31°47’

RP, RF, JT, PW, TS

4-7n

F

Ivor-y-Engine

E Face

2100m

N68°29’51" W31°59’12"

AD-

3

1.5

RP, RF, JT, DH

5-7n

F

The Vestry

SW Face ("Bridge over Troubled Snow")

2215m ?

N68°31’ W31°59’

PD+

2

1.5

PW, DH

5-7n

F

The Steeple

E Face ("Knights Move")

2360m M

N68°29’24" W32°00’09"

TD

12

10

RP, RF, JT, TS

6-7

NR

Frankincense

SW Face

N68°29’ W31°58’

D+

7

2.5

LP, NF

8-7

F

Bidvest Peak

E Face

1915m

N68°27’32" W32°05’57"

F

2

1.5

RP, LP, DH, NF

8-7n

NRS

The Bell

N Face ("Charlie Brown")

1660m

N68°28’40" W31°54’26"

D

RF, JT

8-7n

X

The Bell

N Face (alt)

1660m

N68°28’40" W31°54’26"

PW, TS

9-7

NR

The Castle (SE Turret)

E Face ("Mind the Crocs")

N68°29’ W31°57’

ED1/2

5.5

1

PW, TS

9-7

F

The Ivory Pimple

N Ridge

N68°30’ W31°59’

F

0.25

0.2

LP, PW

10-7

X

Trident

N Face

2350m P

N68°28’ W32°02’

RP, RF, JT, NF

10-7

F

Muezzin

N Face

N68°28’06" W31°58’47"

PD+

1

1

RP, RF

13-7

X

The Watchtower

E Ridge

N68°29’ W32°05’

PW, NF

13-7

NR

The Castle (NE Turret)

S Face ("Rupunzel")

N68°29’ W31°57’

D+

4

2

RF, PW

14-7

F

The Castle (S Summit)

2000m

N68°28’34" W31°57’48"

D

6

2

RP, NF

14-7

NR

The Castle (N Summit)

1975m E

N68°29’ W31°58’

D-

4.5

2

LP, TS

14-7

X

The Watchtower

E Ridge

N68°29’ W32°05’

JT, PW

21-7

F

RJ’s Peak

E Face

2850m ?

N68°58’ W31°05’

F

1

0.5

RP, LP, JT, DH, TS

21-7

F

The Galleon

W Ridge

2200m

N68°53’ W31°00’

PD-

1.1

0.75

RF, PW, NF

22-7

F

Cameron Peak

N Ridge

2300m

N68°51’ W31°06’

PD+

2.5

1.5

RP, RF, LP, PW, NF

Peak

Name

Status

Who

Route

Route Name

Grade

Ascent, Descent time

Height

Start

Ideal start

Position

1

Boat

Rock Climb

RP, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW

Ruddy 'ard

4c

-

3m

1100hrs

=

66°5'N 23°5'W

2

Table Mountain

Rock Climb

RP, AP, RG, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW

Sweaty feet

4c

-

1m

2000hrs

=

66°5'N 23°5'W

3

The Schoolroom

First Ascent

RP, AP, RG, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW

SE ridge from W facing gully

AD

6hrs, 7hrs

» 1925mW

0900hrs

=

68°33’N 31°45’W

4

Coxcombe

New Route

RP, TC

N face of E ridge

D+ (V-)

8hrs, 6hrs

1970m

0300hrs

0000hrs

68°32’N 31°52’W

5

The Dome

First Ascent

AP, DH, SW

SW face

Rampant Slab

VS (4a 4b 4c 5a)

5hrs, 2hrs

» 1550mW

0900hrs

=

68°33’N 31°47’W

6

Wildspur Peak

First Ascent

RG, RF

W ridge

Blancmange Wrestling

D (IV)

9hrs, 4hrs

» 1870mW

1100hrs

=

68°31’N 31°50’W

7

The Nob

Rock Climb

RG, TC

N face

The Daft Side

VS (4c 4b 5a 4c)

3hrs

» 1350mC

1300hrs

=

68°31’N 31°50’W

Rock Climb

RP, AP

NE Face

Poke in the hole

VS (4b 4c 4a 5a)

3hrs

» 1350mC

1300hrs

=

Rock Climb

RF, SW

NE Face

Toad in the hole

HVS (5b A0 4a 5a)

3hrs

» 1350mC

1300hrs

=

8

Cauldron

First Ascent

RP, AP, RG, TC

E facing gully to SE ridge

Slap my pitch up

AD+ (IV)

5.5hrs, 3hrs

» 1950mC

0900hrs

=

68°31’N 31°50’W

9

The Nunnery: Workmate Bttrs

Abandoned

RF, SW

NW Spur, left buttress

Hard as Nails

D+

0900hrs

=

68°32’N 31°47’W

10

Serpent

First Ascent

TH, DH

Central gully, SW face

Not enough hours in a trip

PD

6.5hrs, 9hrs

» 1900mC

0800hrs

=

68°34’N 31°43’W

11

Nipple

First Ascent

RP, AP, TC, RF, SW

NE Face

AD- (III)

5hrs, 3hrs

» 2260mW

0630hrs

0300hrs

68°33’N 31°57’W

12

The Actress

First Ascent

RP, AP, TC, RF

Central gully, S face

Nice work, if you can get it

TD+ (V/6)

13hrs, 7hrs

» 2300mW

0000hrs

=

68°35’N 31°48’W

13

The Nunnery

Abandoned

RG, DH, SW

N facing gully, SE ridge

Headbanger

AD-

6.5hrs, 6hrs (to ridge)

2200hrs

2000hrs

68°31’N 31°47’W

14

Smurf

First Ascent

RG, TH

Ski Ascent from W

F-

4hrs

» 2100mM

2300hrs

=

68°38’N 31°22’W

15

Jean-Luc

First Ascent

RG, TH

Ski Ascent from NE

F-

2.5hrs (from Smurf), 3hrs

» 2100mM

-

=

68°34’N 31°31’W

16

The Slabs

Rock Climb

AP, SW

S Face, lower buttress of Dome

Sunshine Slab

HVS (5a 4b)

1hr

» 1300mC

1200hrs

=

68°33’N 31°47’W

Rock Climb

AP, SW

No rest for the wicked

E2 (6a 5b)

2hrs

» 1300mC

1400hrs

=

17

The Bishop

First Ascent

RP, TC

SE face then SW face gully

Snakes and Ladders

D+ (IV/5)

12hrs, 10hrs

» 2350mW

0400hrs

=

68°34’N 31°51’W

18

Bishop's Finger

First Ascent

RF, SW

SW gully then corkscrew

Lumps of it, around the back

TD-(5aA1)

12hrs, 6hrs

» 2200mC

0400hrs

0300hrs

68°34’N 31°51’W

19

Golden Tower

First Ascent

AP, RG

S ridge

Biggles Flies again

D+(VI-)

6hrs, 2.5hrs

» 1950mC

0900hrs

0800hrs

68°35’N 31°50’W

Year

Expedition Leader and members

Area Visited

Peaks Climbed

1932

L R Wager & ?

Frederiksborg Glacier

None

1937

L R Wager, Jack Longland, Augustine Courtauld

Kangerdlugssuaq region

Gunnbjorns Fjeld

1978

Stan Woolley & ?

Frederiksborg Glacier

Mitivangkat (W)

1987

Stan Woolley, Robin Knox-Johnston, Rob Ferguson, Steve McCabe & ?

Gunnbjornsfjeld Fjeld, Frederiksborg Glacier, Flew in and out of Sodalen

Gunnbjorns Fjeld

1990

Stan Woolley, Phil Bartlett, Ted Courtney, Dr Iain Campbell, John Richardson, Rob Ferguson, Jim Lowther, Dave Woolley, Mike Parsons

Northern Konprins Fredriks Bjerge. Flew in and out from ice cap

Peaks in Konprins Fredriks Bjerge

1991

Chris Bonington, Jim Lowther, Robin Knox-Johnston

Hedgehog Glacier. Sailed and skied to and from coast

A summit of Minster

1992

Phil Bartlett, Rob Illingworth, Gary Baum, Mike & Jenny Woolridge, Barry Mills, David Stewart-Smith, Bill Pelkley, Luke Hughes

Hedgehog Glacier. Flew to Lindberg Mountains and out from Sodalen

Cathedral, Sara’s Peak, Mitre, Chisel (SE), Coxcomb, Rubble Peak, Mitivangkat (E), Cymbrogi

1993

Chris Bonington, Graham Little, Jim Lowther, Rob Ferguson

Chisel Glacier. Flew to Chisel Glacier and out from Sodalen

Beacon, Chisel, Ivory Tower, Trident, Needle

1994

Dave Wilson, Steve Brailey, Graeme Nicholson, Richie Donnison, Ian Burn, Phil Chapple, Anne Goudie, Phil Richardson

Coast, Gabbrofjeld group

Pt 1010 (N68º10 W31º08), Pt 1800 (N68º21 W31º08)

1998

Steve Brailey, Jeff Haslam, Pete Dawson, Ian Cousins, Glyn Lewis, Keith Miller, Dave Wilson

Cocker Glacier. Flew to Cocker Glacier and out from Sodalen

Thunder Road, Dome de Jenel, Isobelar, Laurenar, Chisel (S), Eljam, Lilevat, Icon Peak

1999

Richard Pash, Rupert Finn, Tom Chamberlain, Rupert Gladstone, Andy Parker, Sarah Walmsley, Tim Harvey, Dan Heywood

Hedgehog Glacier. Flew to and from Cocker Glacier

Schoolroom, Coxcombe, Dome, Wildspur Peak, Nob, Cauldron, Serpent, Nipple, The Actress, Smurf, Jean-Luc, The Bishop, Bishop’s Finger, Golden Tower

Menu A

Menu B

Menu C

Menu D

Breakfast

Breakfast

Breakfast

Breakfast

Muesli

800

Grams

Porridge

800

Grams

Muesli

800

Grams

Porridge

800

Grams

Kippers in oil

3

Tins

Mackerel in sauce 1

3

Tins

Mackerel in sauce 2

3

Tins

Mackerel in sauce 3

3

Tins

Milk

350

Grams

Milk

350

Grams

Milk

350

Grams

Milk

350

Grams

Tea

8

Bags

Tea

8

Bags

Tea

8

Bags

Tea

8

Bags

Sugar

500

Grams

Sugar

500

Grams

Sugar

500

Grams

Sugar

500

Grams

Lunch

Lunch

Lunch

Lunch

Krackerwheat

16x8

Biscuits

Krackerwheat

16x8

Biscuits

Krackerwheat

16x8

Biscuits

Krackerwheat

16x8

Biscuits

Tuna in Sauce 1

4

Tins

Tuna in Sauce 2

4

Tins

Tuna in Sauce 3

4

Tins

Tuna in Sauce 4

4

Tins

Jam

300

Grams

Jam

300

Grams

Jam

300

Grams

Jam

300

Grams

Mars Bar

8

Bars

King Size Snickers Bar

8

Bars

Mars Bar

8

Bars

King Size Snickers Bar

8

Bars

Topic Bar

8

Bars

Topic Bar

8

Bars

Fruseli Bar

8

Bars

Fruseli Bar

8

Bars

Fruseli Bar

8

Bars

Fruseli Bar

8

Bars

Pepperami

8

Sticks

Pepperami

8

Sticks

Pepperami

8

Sticks

Pepperami

8

Sticks

Supper

Supper

Supper

Supper

Beanfeast 1

1000

Grams

Beanfeast 2

1000

Grams

Beanfeast 3

1000

Grams

Beanfeast 4

1000

Grams

Custard 1

300

Grams

Custard 2

300

Grams

Custard 3

300

Grams

Custard 4

300

Grams

Cup-a-Soup

8

Sachets

Cup-a-Soup

8

Sachets

Tea

12

Bags

Tea

12

Bags

Tea

12

Bags

Tea

12

Bags

Hot Chocolate

8

Sachets

Hot Chocolate

8

Sachets

Hot Chocolate

8

Sachets

Hot Chocolate

8

Sachets

Mcvities biscuits

2

Packets

Mcvities biscuits

2

Packets

Mcvities biscuits

2

Packets

Mcvities biscuits

2

Packets

2

Snow Shovels

Strong

1

Mending Kit

Hacksaw, adjustable spanner, hand drill, small file, allan key (ice axes), 2 screwdrivers, pliers (for extracting stove cleaning wire), epoxy resin, freezer bags and twists, rubber gloves (for washing up and mending stoves), Ortleib water sacks (with one open end), spare sunglasses, crampon straps and bolts, misc. nuts and bolts and large washers, screws, roll of wire, cooker spares kits, tough thread and needles, waxed cotton and puncture repair kit (for Yeti Gaiters), spare tent and clothing patches spare, straps/webbing, carpet tape and insulating tape and brown tape, first aid handbook, spare lighters in waterproof bag (flints are water soluble!), fresh garlic, 3 large tubes skins glue.

1

Mess Tent

See ‘Kit report’ for details

3

Stoves

We used two, but it was nice to have one spare!

3

3L Pans

MSR steel pans

1

2L Pan

1

Snowsaw

For building igloos

1

First Aid Kit

See below

7

50m ropes 9mm

Per expedition

1

50m rope 11mm

Per expedition

Wires assorted 1-9

Per climbing pair

Assorted Friends/Hexes

Per climbing pair

9

Extenders

Per climbing pair

4

Slings 8ft

Per climbing pair

2

Slings 4ft

Per climbing pair

3

Pegs assorted

Per climbing pair

3

Ice Screws (screw-in/drive-in)

Per climbing pair

1

Deadman

Per climbing pair

350m

Ab tat

We took 450m, but only used 300m

General

1

Regular

Neck collar

1

Sam Splint

1

Laerval Pocket Mask

1

Size 4

Guedel Airway

1

Size 3

Guedel Airway

2

Small

Giving Set

2

Brown (Large)

Venflon

4

Green (Regular)

Venflon

4

Pink (Small)

Venflon

2

White (Large)

Needles

8

Green (Regular)

Needles

5

Blue (Small)

Needles

3

Sterile Blades

1

Suture Cutter

1

Scalpel

1

Forceps

1

Sterile Scissors

1

Tourniquet

3

5ml

Syringes

4

10ml

Syringes

2

20ml

Syringes

2

10 packet

Steristrips

1

2/0

Silk Sutures

1

2/0

Ethilon Sutures

2

3/0

Silk Sutures

2

4/0

Silk Sutures

3

4/0

Ethilon Sutures

2

5/0

Ethilon Sutures

2

6/0

Ethilon Sutures

1

Eye Patch

6

Eye Pads

30

Alcohol Wipes

3 p

Sterile Gloves

2

100ml

Saline soln

2

500ml

Elohacs

2

500ml

Saline soln

3

Unisept pkt

4

Nrmasol pkt

1

Zinc Oxide Tape

1

5cm

Soft Crepe

1

10cm

Soft Crepe

2

Triangular Bandage

4

5 packet

Sterile Swab

1

5 packet

Cotton Wool Sterile

2

Sterile Pad

2

Mepure Rolls

1

Sleek

6

Venflon Dressing

8

Mepure Dressing

2

Tegaderm

10

Granuflex

Plasters General

Antibiotics IV

1

1g

Euthromycin

3

500mg

Flucloxacillin

5

600mg

Benzylpenicillin

Antibiotics Oral

30

250mg

Euthromycin

100

250mg

Ciprofloxacin

100

250mg

Flucloxacillin

100

400mgs

Metronidazole

80

250mg

Amoxycillin

Analgesia

100

500mg

Paracetamol

60

50mg

Diclofenac

42

75mg

Voltarol SR

10

2ml @ 10mg/ml

Nubain

2

20ml x 2

Xylocaine

Emergency

2

1:1000

Adrenaline

3

400mcg

Narcan

3

10mg in 2ml

Metoclopramide

Other

1

Cloromyictin eye ointment

1

Otosporin Ear Drops

30

10mg

Clarityn

20

10mg

Metoclopramide

1

Sleeping Bag

Down or Synthetic : Must be -20oC rating : Make sure it is clean

1

Sleeping Bag Liner

If you like that sort of thing - you can get fleece liners to up-rate your bag

1

Bivvy bag

Essential for down sleeping bag users : Almost essential if you want to igloo or snow hole : should be 100% breathable (i.e. no Nylon ground sheets) : Goretex or Pertex which is cheaper.

1

Therm-a-rest

I’d say it is more important to have a thermarest than a top sleeping bag

2/3

Underwear

2/3

Socks

One worn and one spare

1

Ronhills

Or similar - it can get hot skiing in the still sunshine.

1

Warm leg ware

Helly Hansen Sallopettes are great : Be careful with fleece trousers, make sure they are really warm : Skiing sallopettes are OK : They will need to be warm enough so you can sit on snow at a belay for 30mins and still feel your bum.

2

Thermal Tops

The closer the fit, the warmer.

2

Mid-Layer Tops

Again, baggy stuff isn't as warm as it could be.

1

Thick Fleece

Or pile or a jumper

1

Shell Top

Goretex / Pertex ... Breathable and with a good hood

1

Insulated Jacket

Not essential, but very nice for sitting around in Camp / stopping for lunch

1

Shell Leg ware

Goretex / Pertex / Ventile... Needn't be a separate layer (i.e. same as warm leg wear) – for belays on snow apart from anything else

2

Thin Gloves

Eg Terra Nova thicky gloves for around camp, skiing etc

1

Thick Gloves

These can't be too warm, pref. with knuckle protection. Don't get massively oversized mitts.

Ear Band

Unless you have bastard-hard ears, you'll need this even on the good days. Also good for around you neck

1

Sun glasses

UV everything proof : Side shading bits : Non glass lens

1

Ruck Sack

Because we all have sledges, and there is no load carrying, you don’t need a massive sack. About 40-50L would be fine

1

Alpine harness

Easy access is nice

Personal climbing gear

2 8ft slings, 1 4ft sling, belay device and screwgate, 3 snapgates, 2 4ft prussiks, 1 2ft prussik, helmet, Chalkbag

1

Emelda Marcos

Plastics and rock boots

1

Compass

1

Water bottle

1

Mug

plastic : 1 pint

2

Mess tins

Get proper military ones with the arrow on them from an army surplus, the others fall to bits after about a week

1

KFS (or SSS)

Nice and big

1

Pen knife

With tin opener

Washing stuff

1

Personal medical kit

For the bits that you know you'll need (plasters, zinc oxide tape...)

Sun Block

Factor lots (<=15)

Lip salve

Loo roll flatpacks

Do your sums carefully! Can you go double sided? Carry In plastic bags

2

Lighter

for burning your loo roll

Cassettes

For the tape player

Diary

3

Pencils

Camera

You can get film in duty free, but remember to get to the airport early (we fly at 10.45pm)

Iceland gear

Bring the following for the end of the trip when we get back to Iceland (change of clothes, trainers, shaver, towel, swimming trunks, soap and shampoo,

Addresses

Bring name and address of every sponsor etc, for the report and for postcards from Iceland