The Expedition climbed 32 routes including first ascents of 20 unclimbed mountains. Fine weather allowed us to climb twice as many unclimbed mountains as we hoped. A variety of mountains and routes were climbed. To give some examples:

• Technical Ice/Snow routes – The Steeple (a 700m ‘white line’, incl. two pitches of Scottish V and four pitches of III)
• Mixed routes – Citadel (after an 8 pitch rock arête, the summit snow ridge meant an exciting traverse in rock boots on the headwall), Sheridan Dark (iced cracks at Scottish IV follow the 60° snow gully)
• Rock Routes – Haystook N (an 11 pitch arête), Castle NE Turret (8 pitches of slabs)
• Ski Mountaineering – Bidvest Peak (with a 120° panorama of Kangerdlugssuaq (fjord)), RJ’s peak (the circular tour included a 200m descent at 30-40°)

Routes in the Lemon Mountains were climbed from two base camps at 1220m and 1440m, and those in the Lindbergh mountains were climbed from a base camp at 2090m.

The Lemon Mountains offer outstanding opportunities for mountaineering. There still remain many unclimbed peaks in the area offering both difficult snow and rock routes. On the Sarah and Chisel Glaciers there are still significant and challenging objectives for a future expeditions, making only first ascents. Routes we sighted on some of these unclimbed peaks are also given below.

Remaining routes would be at a similar range of grades to the routes we climbed; we did not aim to pick the easiest or most difficult routes on the glacier.

A summary of peaks climbed is given in an appendix. Route descriptions are shown below.

1. F = First Ascent, NRS = New Route to a previously climbed summit, NR = New Route to a subsidiary summit/ main summit not gained, X = Attempt Failed
2. Position: 6-digit position from GPS, 4-digit estimated from map
3. Height: all heights calculated by Casio or Suunto altitude watch unless specified (M –from Map, P – from previous ascent, E – estimated from other mountain heights)
4. Times: Taken from where skis were left (except Bidvest peak and RJ’s Peak where skis were used to ascend the mountain)
5. Grades: Overall: French Alpine Grade. Rock: UIAA Grade. Snow/Ice: Scottish Winter Grade
6. Previous Attempts: Most routes climbed had not been attempted before. However the following peaks had been attempted by Chris Bonington’s group in 1993 (British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1993)

• The Steeple – Same route chosen (E Face)
• The Pulpit – different routes chosen (S face and W ridge)
• Citadel – Same route chosen (E ridge)

Failed Attempts: we experienced poor north-facing snow conditions during the expedition, this resulted in us failing on several routes (Chisel 2 North ridge, Trident N Face and Sheridan Light N Ridge)

Ascend E face at end of SE ridge to gain ridge, scrambling through two rocky bands. Follow ridge to second summit and then to main summit. Descent route is reverse of ascent.

Ascend snowy couloir left of first step. Pass on the left and cross a snow saddle. Go over the second step and descend to a narrow saddle. Climb broken ground to the right-trending groove in the centre of the face. Climb this in 3 or 4 pitches (different routes by two parties), crossing a snow patch at two thirds height, and trend left up slates to reach snowy summit (rock to III). Descend from left-hand end of the summit in two abseils from blocks down steep snow to the glacier. Walk back round the peak on the glacier between French’s Peak and the Needle.

1. E Ridge, F, ascent 2.5 hours, descent 1 hour. First climbed by RP, JT on 23/6/00 (started climbing at 7pm, ideal 11pm)

Ascend the E facing broad couloir between the N and S summits. At the bealach break out onto the crescent shaped ridge. Initially loose rock requiring care leads to fun scrambing close to the crest. An easy slope leads to the summit. For topo see Solstice Peak photo.



Bell North Face

2. Charlie Brown (N Face), D, ascent 6 hours, descent 4 hours. Climbed by RF, JT.

Start at foot of pillar on far left of west face.

1. IV-. Ascend left-hand side of pillar to ledge.
2. Traverse 50m left to sloping crack.
3. IV+. Chimney and corner to overhanging corner.
4. V+. Awkward corner to crack system to gully. Belay on cioch on left of gully.
5. Avoid snow patch on right and continue at left of gully.
6. Two steep slabs with cracks back to ledge.
7. Traverse around snow patch and belay on block above by gully.
8. VI. Bridge across gully and swing onto hanging block. Follow crack and block to summit snows

Descent is just right of ascent via five abseils.

Start at the SW side just right of the main avalanche/stone fall line. Obvious right hand crack line to big bay. Then follow next crack line to ridge. From ridge follow steep ground trending rightwards. Another crack line pitch leads to just above steep band. Again, easier ground leads to the summit. Descent left of ascent (3 abseils) – some loose rock. For topo see Solstice Peak photo.

Chisel N Buttress

Start at small ledge/snowpatch at lowest part of buttress.

1. V+. Climb crack/corner to top and traverse L to bottom of slab.
2. V. Slab to roof. Climb right of crack.
3. V-. Pass ledges to belay below corner.
4. V. Corner to ledge and steep corner above.
5. V. Thin flake leads to corner and belay on top.
6. V-. Wide corner to ledges and large chockstone.
7. VI. Gain thin crack on headwall, balancey moves (crux). Steep crack leads to snow ridge.

Descent is reverse of ascent (6 abseils).

Route aborted due to poor snow conditions and avalanche risk.

Approach from SE through large crevasse field. Head up obvious large snow gully to col, 45° . Trend right up smaller gully to short rock step leading to summit block. Descent is reverse of ascent (no abseiling necessary).

Approach from Needle Glacier and ascend E ridge (snow ridge) to summit. Descent route is reverse of ascent. (Peak used to recce snow route on Pulpit).

Approach from col on Chisel Glacier. Ascend right hand flank/shoulder visible from Porpoise Glacier, trend left avoiding large crevasses and ascend left flank to summit. Descent is reverse of ascent.

1. Shared Pleasures (S Face), AD+, climbed by RP, PW, JT, DH on 26/6/00 (started climbing 11.30pm)

Approach from the south, crossing the col just south of Pulpit from Sarah G. to Coxcombe G. The route follows an obvious NE facing couloir of II/III climbing on neve and ice (at approximately half height an optional vertical pitch was taken at III/IV on water ice). From the top of the gully make a descending traverse on rock (IV-) to another gully. Ascend this, then a short rock step to the pedestal-like summit. Descent is reverse of ascent. Ice pitch can be bypassed on the left.

2. Spiney’s Corner (W Ridge), TD-, climbed by RF, TS on 27/6/00 (started climbing at 10am, ideal 12pm)

1. Santa’s Little Helper (on the Haystook Buttress), ED1, climbed by RF, PW on 1/7/00, ascent 6.5 hours, descent 2.5 hours

Descent as for previous route.

3. Deaf Man’s Nuisance (on Haystook N, W Ridge), D, climbed by NF, DH on 1/7/00, ascent 8.5 hours, descent 4 hours

Approach as for previous routes, but cross the large gully to the north and ascend the SW corner of the neighbouring peak. The route follows the line of least resistance from gully bottom to summit but avoids the long steep walls that tower above the wet shaded gully.

1. V (45m). SW corner, wet start leading to a long S facing crack and chimney.
2. IV- (40m). Move right and climb corner. Easier terrain above.
3. IV- (30m). Follow up a series of corners to the broken ridge. Belay in bay.
4. IV+ (35m). Up slab then trend right up a blocky-looking ramp.
5. V (30m). Go directly up the crack in the steep wall. Then carry on up, trending rightwards.
6. IV- (40m). Carry on towards summit using lovely crack lines.
7. IV- (30m). Same as last pitch, move under a roof, exit right then belay above.
8. (40m). Up and right to stream.
9. (40m). Up wet chimney to easy ground above.
10. (45m). Easy ground to summit blocks.
11. (15m). Final loose steep blocks to summit.

Descent is reverse of ascent: 6 abseils.

4. Haystook S, W Ridge, D+, climbed by RP, LP on 1/7/00, ascent 8.5 hours, descent 4 hours (started climbing 10am).

The route begins at the lowest point on the SW corner of the mountain and follows a generally direct line to the summit, trending left, to approach the summit at the left side of the obvious summit W face.

1. V (50m). Climb the central of three obvious corners.
2. Scramble up and left crossing a streambed and a snow patch to a steep corner (the leftmost on the left wall).
3. V+ (10m). Climb corner.
4. Two pitches and then 100m scrambling trending up and left to belay W of summit under steeper ground.
5. Climb up and left (some poor rock) to belay high under W face directly under short overhanging big corner.
6. V+. Ascend corner 5m to big ledge (20m x 2m!).
7. V+. Climb off-width cracks directly above corner on face to summit.

Note: Only half of final pitch was completed as 4/5 size 4 friends or hex 11 needed for protection.

The route starts from the centre of the corrie on the N and W facing side. Then follows a large gully and finishes at a huge cornice. The summit is third from the right and is approached from the left via a very slushy traverse with loose rock. Descent is reverse of ascent, including one abseil of 25m.

Attempt aborted due to poor N facing snow conditions.

The mountain was approached from the south skiing high up a corrie glacier just underneath a broad snow ramp to the east of the mountain.

Climb the ramp to the col and a further ramp 50m north, following the snow arete. Then turn left on snow (to 55° ) through mixed ground to a col to the N of the summit. Short pitch of rock (IV+) to summit. Descent as ascent.

Ascend the right of the serac field, as for the approach to the Citadel. Bear right on reaching the col, up a tributary glacier. Climb this glacier as it curves back round to the left, crossing several large crevasses/bergshrunds which span the whole glacier. Steep snow leads to a snow ridge at the top of the slope. Follow this rightwards to broken rocky ground. Then climb the rock (III) to the summit. Descent is reverse of ascent. One abseil from summit, then down-climb rest of rock and snow.

The route essentially takes the line of a dyke approached via a ramp line. Initially this is a narrow chimney followed by an open couloir (E face).

Cross the bergshrund and approach the ramp line which trends left on neve and mixed ground (III) crossing an ‘airy’ corner. Climb the chimney direct on water ice taking belays on the left wall (the two main pitches being V, 5 and IV, 5). Continue on 45/50° neve up the open couloir until a short ice step is reached. Ascend this and take two pitches on 50° hard ice (III) before breaking right up a small chimney and entertaining mixed ground. A single pitch leads to the summit at IV.

For descent, abseil line of ascent to base of chimney. Two further abseils straight down lead to snow slope. Bergshrund was also ‘abbed’ on first ascent.

Approach the lowest rock slabs on the SW side of the rock buttress. These were then followed to above the snow gully. Then crossed left taking the obvious rock gully.

1. IV+ (40m). Rock Slabs to easier ground above.
2. IV- (30m). Parallel snow patch.
3. - (70m). Moving together toward large central chimney.
4. IV+ (30m). Chossy corner and cracks.
5. VI- (35m). Fairly sustained corner. Left hand of three crack lines move up and into chimney.
6. IV- (40m). Follow cracks and corners leads to a second flat area.

Note: We descended from here but reckon four pitches of 4a-5a would take you trending left to the summit. Five abseils to the bottom.

Ascend E face to col on skis. Continue on skis up snow covered N facing snow ridge. Snow slope and rock ridge to snow covered summit.

1. Mind The Crocodiles (E Face of SE Turret), ED1/2, climbed by PW, TS on 9/7/00, ascent 5.5 hours, descent 1 hour.

The route follows the straight ‘left-to-right’ slanting crack in the middle of the face starting at its origin on the left.

1. VII-. Climb the steep corner with a crack in the back for about 20m. Step right at the top, and belay on a large loose flake.
2. VII-. Traverse right across a slab to a groove and pull out the top to a wide crack. Climb this for 5m before teetering left on a small ledge, round a bulge, to belay at the left-hand edge of the ledge.
3. VI+/VII-. Climb the slab above, with the help of the crack on the left. The angle becomes vertical. Traverse right, and slightly down when you reach the top wall, to belay in a niche below a small roof.
4. VI+/VII-. Climb the slab to the roof. Pull over the roof directly. Then follow a slightly right-trending, wide crack, on steep ground. Belay in a narrow cave behind an enormous flake on the left.

The party got about halfway up the face, pretty much climbing at their limit. The way ahead looked possible to climb, but if anything a bit harder, so they "quit while they were ahead". The descent involved two abseils down the same line.

2. Rupunzel (NE Turret, S Face), D+, climbed by RF, PW on 13/7/00, ascent 4 hours, descent 2 hours.

Start in the middle of the face to the bottom left of the spire forming the right hand buttress of the Castle.

1. IV. Climb a corner trending leftwards, then a short, steep corner, exiting right onto a slab. Trend left up the slab to belay on a small ledge.
2. IV. Climb the slab above. A few steep section are climbed following the crack on the right. A gentler slab leads to a belay on a large ledge.
3. V+. Go round the corner to the left. Climb the crack in the corner of the slab to a niche. Climb the wide left-hand crack, and the blank slab above. Belay on a large ledge.
4. III+. Climb the slab above and cross stepped broken ground to belay at the base of a wall on the left.
5. VI. Climb the steep wall via ragged, twin cracks. Easier slabby ground above takes you to the subsidiary tower.
6. IV+. Climb four or five short, steep walls, interspersed with large ledges, going straight up the headwall.
7. V-. Climb two longer walls above, crossing a large ledge in the middle, both using a right-hand crack. Continue up broken ground to belay.
8. III. Move together over gentler, broken ground, with a short chimney in the middle, to the summit of the turret (more than 50m).

Descent involves approximately 100m of down-climbing, then five abseils back down the route.

2. Cam-a-Little (S (main) Summit, W Face) D, climbed by RP, NF on 14/7/00, ascent 6 hours, descent 2 hours.

2. Cam-a-Lot (N Summit, W Face) D-, climbed by TS, LP on 17/7/00, ascent 4.5 hours, descent 2 hours.

As for above to the beginning of the rock. Where the previous route traverses left to the start of the S Tower, plod a couple of metres up to a ledge at the bottom of the N Tower.

1. IV+. Climb a short steep crack to a prominent ledge. Follow this up and right to another blocky crack. Climb this to a large ledge.
2. Step right to twin cracks below a roof. Take the right to below the roof, then step back left to a groove/crack. Belay at the bottom of a gully, at the same height on the roof.
3. IV-. Climb the gully to its top, then step right to a small groove/corner system. Continue until easy ground.
4. Follow easy ground to a scree patch below the final wall.
5. IV+. Walk up and left, and climb a wide crack on the edge of a snow patch, to a steepening corner, to the top.

Descend by 3 abseils to big boots, then as for above.

Ivory Pimple North ridge

Mixed line of snow and rock (scrambing only) up N ridge.

From N ascend hard ice to W of peak. Climb rock arete from col to summit. Climbed to recce route on Minaret

Two attempts were made on the Watchtower:

The second attempt abseiled from the top of the shoulder, just before an impassable crevasse. The party abseiled over the lip of the serac, over to the rocky spur, then 100m down the spur. At this point the pair were about 30m above the bergshrund, which looked impassable, thus necessitating a retreat (by ascending fixed ropes).

This impressive mountain has an exciting-looking twisting ice gully (est. IV/V) running up its north face. This was the attempted line. The attempt failed due to broken rock and running water. In colder conditions the route may be possible; alternatively a rock buttress to the left of the attempted line may give access to the ice (est. 50m, V)

The mountain was approached from the E onto the S ridge of the peak. The S ridge was gained at the lowest-angled point of a broad E facing shoulder. From the summit a SW traverse was made to the lowest point of the col East of Pt. 2800m (Tarongabong N68° 57’ W31° 09’. Cross the crevasses at the col below (40° /45° ) to access a wide ski slope that allows a ski descent to the glacier S of the mountain.

This mountain is the northernmost peak of a group of three nunataks. Approach mountain from W, route climbs W ridge to summit. Climb W snow face then follow gully on right hand side (to 50° ; 50m) then follow scree to ridge. Traverse rock ridge (III-) with snow patches to summit block.

The summit was gained by a traverse of the mountain from the N.

Climb the snow shoulder N of the mountain to access the end of the NE ridge (summit ridge). Traverse the summit ridge to a rock summit. Abseil or down-climb a 25m rock step. Climb the rock step opposite (IV-, 12m) and continue along the snow ridge to summit. Descent is reverse of ascent with one abseil at rock step