The British Lemon Mountains Expedition 2000 visited a remote part of East Greenland during summer 2000 to climb and explore. The expedition lasted six weeks and was based in the Lemon Mountains and then the Lindbergh Mountains, just north of KANGERDLUGSSUAQ. The expedition group, which consisted of eight friends, reached the area by ski plane from Iceland.
Three members of the group visited the area in 1999 as part of the British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1999.
The two expeditions were planned to thoroughly explore different parts of the range: the 1999 expedition concentrated on the Hedgehog Glacier whereas this expedition focussed on the Chisel Glacier area, where many fine peaks had been spotted the year before
This year the group climbed 32 new routes including first ascents of 20 mountains in the area. In addition they explored the Lemon Mountains and Lindbergh Mountains by ski, and made a 60Km ski tour between them.
Richard Pash Expedition Leader
What were the objectives of the expedition and did we achieve them?
|
Objective |
Outcome |
|
To climb 10 unclimbed mountains |
The group climbed 32 new routes including first ascents of 20 mountains in the area |
|
To make a ski tour from the Lemon to the Lindbergh Mountains |
The group pulked 60Km from the Lemon mountain to the Lindbergh Mountains. |
|
To explore the area around the Coxcombe and Chisel Glaciers |
The Chisel, Sarah, Needle and Sheridan Glaciers were explored. The Sarah Glacier was followed to its snout (by observations from Bidvest peak) and cols explored between the Chisel, Coxcombe and Sarah glacier explored. A new crossing between the Sarah and Coxcombe glaciers was used to climb the Pulpit. Exploration of the Sheridan Glacier found our route on Sheridan Dark. |
|
To explore around the Lemon Mountains |
From our landing point on the Cocker Glacier a new ski traverse was made between the Cocker and Chisel Glaciers via Porpoise Glacier. |
|
To take 4 people on their first expedition |
Tom Spreyer, Jim Thacker, Pippa Whitehouse and Nic Faulks had not been on a mountaineering expedition before |
|
To give slide shows on our return to youth groups |
Slide shows planned include: Sid and Otter Vale district Scouts, Lakeside YMCA, Tyne Valley Climbers Club, Mowden Hill School, Shaffow Trust First School, St. Josephs Middle School, Haden Bridge Community School, Edale Mountain Rescue Team, Derby Mountain Rescue Team, Viking Venture Scout Unit (Derby), Friends Provident Life Office, Sir John Port School (Etwall), Norfolk Youth and Community Services Peer Education Group, Woodseats Venture Scout Unit (Sheffield), Lever Brothers UK, Lever Brothers Milan |
All 8 members of the expedition returned safely to the UK without injury or incident.
|
Leader Richard Pash Tel: 01404 812088 Richard.pash@unilever.com (from 8/2001) |
Website This report can be found at: www.wayupnorth.clara.co.uk |
The British Lemon Mountains Expedition 2000
Scale: Approx. 1: 90,000 (1cm=0.9Km)
Notes:
Appendix 1 Routes Climbed/Attempted (2000)
|
Date |
Route Status |
Mountain name |
Route |
Height |
Position |
Grade |
Asc. Time |
Desc. Time |
Climbers |
|
20-6n |
F |
Solstice Peak |
SE Ridge |
1750m |
N68°28 W31°58 |
PD- |
2.5 |
1 |
RP, RF, LP, JT, PW, DH, NF, TS |
|
21-6n |
F |
Frenchs Peak |
S Ridge |
1750m |
N68°30 W31°52 |
AD- |
5.5 |
4 |
LP, PW, DH, NF |
|
21-6n |
F |
Citadel |
E Ridge |
2550m |
N68°3045" W31°5755" |
D+ |
9 |
7 |
RP, RF, JT, TS |
|
23-6 |
F |
The Bell N |
E Ridge |
1660m |
N68°2840" W31°5426" |
F |
2.5 |
1 |
RP, JT |
|
23-6 |
NR |
The Bell S |
S Face ("Bumble Bee") |
1600m E |
N68°28 W31°54 |
AD+ |
4 |
2 |
LP, NF |
|
23-6 |
NR |
Chisel (Buttress) |
N Buttress ("Comes the Sea Bass") |
|
N68°28 W31°50 |
TD- |
5 |
2.5 |
RF, PW |
|
24-6n |
F |
Sheridan Dark |
S Face |
2050m |
N68°2649" W31°5337" |
D- |
3 |
4 |
RF, PW, NF, TS |
|
24-6n |
X |
Sheridan Light |
N Ridge |
2000m E |
N68°27 W31°54 |
|
|
|
RP, LP, JT, DH |
|
24-6n |
F |
The Spire |
E Face |
2260m |
N68°27 W32°00 |
PD+ |
2.5 |
1 |
RP, LP, JT, DH |
|
26-6 |
F |
The Congregation |
E Ridge |
1750m E |
N68°30 W31°55 |
F |
0.5 |
0.5 |
RP |
|
26-6n |
NRS |
Icon Peak |
NE Shoulder |
2050m P |
N68°26 W32°02 |
F |
2.5 |
1 |
LP, NF |
|
26-6n |
F |
The Pulpit |
S Face ("Shared Pleasures") |
2110m ? |
N68°3024" W31°5520" |
AD+ |
4 |
3 |
RP, JT, PW, DH |
|
27-6 |
NRS |
The Pulpit |
W Ridge ("Spineys Corner") |
2110m ? |
N68°3024" W31°5520" |
TD- |
3 |
1.5 |
RF, TS |
|
1-7 |
NR |
Haystook Buttress |
"Santas Little Helper" |
|
N68°31 W31°48 |
ED1 |
6.5 |
2.5 |
RF, PW |
|
1-7 |
NR |
Haystook Buttress |
"Tonys Slate" |
|
N68°31 W31°48 |
ED1 |
6.5 |
2.5 |
JT, TS |
|
1-7 |
F |
Haystook N |
W Ridge ("Deaf Mans Nuisance") |
1800m |
N68°31 W31°47 |
D |
8.5 |
4 |
DH, NF |
|
1-7 |
NR |
Haystook S |
W Ridge |
1750m E |
N68°31 W31°47 |
D+ |
8.5 |
4 |
RP, LP |
|
2-7n |
F |
Chalfoun Peak |
W Face |
1660m |
N68°29 W31°46 |
F |
2 |
1 |
LP, NF |
|
2-7n |
X |
Chisel 2 |
N Ridge |
|
N68°28 W31°47 |
|
|
|
RP, RF, JT, PW, TS |
|
4-7n |
F |
Ivor-y-Engine |
E Face |
2100m |
N68°2951" W31°5912" |
AD- |
3 |
1.5 |
RP, RF, JT, DH |
|
5-7n |
F |
The Vestry |
SW Face ("Bridge over Troubled Snow") |
2215m ? |
N68°31 W31°59 |
PD+ |
2 |
1.5 |
PW, DH |
|
5-7n |
F |
The Steeple |
E Face ("Knights Move") |
2360m M |
N68°2924" W32°0009" |
TD |
12 |
10 |
RP, RF, JT, TS |
|
6-7 |
NR |
Frankincense |
SW Face |
|
N68°29 W31°58 |
D+ |
7 |
2.5 |
LP, NF |
|
8-7 |
F |
Bidvest Peak |
E Face |
1915m |
N68°2732" W32°0557" |
F |
2 |
1.5 |
RP, LP, DH, NF |
|
8-7n |
NRS |
The Bell |
N Face ("Charlie Brown") |
1660m |
N68°2840" W31°5426" |
D |
|
|
RF, JT |
|
8-7n |
X |
The Bell |
N Face (alt) |
1660m |
N68°2840" W31°5426" |
|
|
|
PW, TS |
|
9-7 |
NR |
The Castle (SE Turret) |
E Face ("Mind the Crocs") |
|
N68°29 W31°57 |
ED1/2 |
5.5 |
1 |
PW, TS |
|
9-7 |
F |
The Ivory Pimple |
N Ridge |
|
N68°30 W31°59 |
F |
0.25 |
0.2 |
LP, PW |
|
10-7 |
X |
The Scalpel |
N Face |
|
N68°28 W32°00 |
|
|
|
RP, RF, JT, NF |
|
10-7 |
F |
Muezzin |
N Face |
|
N68°2806" W31°5847" |
PD+ |
1 |
1 |
RP, RF |
|
13-7 |
X |
The Watchtower |
E Ridge |
|
N68°29 W32°05 |
|
|
|
PW, NF |
|
13-7 |
NR |
The Castle (NE Turret) |
S Face ("Rupunzel") |
|
N68°29 W31°57 |
D+ |
4 |
2 |
RF, PW |
|
14-7 |
F |
The Castle (S Summit) |
W Face ("Cam-a-Little") |
2000m |
N68°2834" W31°5748" |
D |
6 |
2 |
RP, NF |
|
14-7 |
NR |
The Castle (N Summit) |
W Face ("Cam-a-Lot") |
1975m E |
N68°29 W31°58 |
D- |
4.5 |
2 |
LP, TS |
|
14-7 |
X |
The Watchtower |
E Ridge |
|
N68°29 W32°05 |
|
|
|
JT, PW |
|
21-7 |
F |
RJs Peak |
E Face |
2850m ? |
N68°58 W31°05 |
F |
1 |
0.5 |
RP, LP, JT, DH, TS |
|
21-7 |
F |
The Galleon |
W Ridge |
2200m |
N68°53 W31°00 |
PD- |
1.1 |
0.75 |
RF, PW, NF |
|
22-7 |
F |
Cameron Peak |
N Ridge |
2300m |
N68°51 W31°06 |
PD+ |
2.5 |
1.5 |
RP, RF, LP, PW, NF |
The British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1999
Scale: Approx. 1: 60,000 (1cm=0.6Km)
Peaks still unclimbed named on this map: The Nunnery, 3 Witches, Coxcomb W., The Diamond, Screwdriver, Cathedral E.
Appendix 2 Routes Climbed/Attempted (1999)
|
Peak |
Name |
Status |
Who |
Route |
Route Name |
Grade |
Ascent, Descent time |
Height |
Start |
Ideal start |
Position |
|
|
1 |
Boat |
Rock Climb |
RP, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW |
Ruddy 'ard |
4c |
- |
3m |
1100hrs |
= |
66 °5'N 23°5'W |
||
|
2 |
Table Mountain |
Rock Climb |
RP, AP, RG, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW |
Sweaty feet |
4c |
- |
1m |
2000hrs |
= |
66 °5'N 23°5'W |
||
|
3 |
The Schoolroom |
First Ascent |
RP, AP, RG, TC, RF, TH, DH, SW |
SE ridge from W facing gully |
AD |
6hrs, 7hrs |
» 1925mW |
0900hrs |
= |
68 °33N 31°45W |
||
|
4 |
Coxcombe |
New Route |
RP, TC |
N face of E ridge |
D+ (V-) |
8hrs, 6hrs |
1970m |
0300hrs |
0000hrs |
68 °32N 31°52W |
||
|
5 |
The Dome |
First Ascent |
AP, DH, SW |
SW face |
Rampant Slab |
VS (4a 4b 4c 5a) |
5hrs, 2hrs |
» 1550mW |
0900hrs |
= |
68 °33N 31°47W |
|
|
6 |
Wildspur Peak |
First Ascent |
RG, RF |
W ridge |
Blancmange Wrestling |
D (IV) |
9hrs, 4hrs |
» 1870mW |
1100hrs |
= |
68 °31N 31°50W |
|
|
7 |
The Nob |
Rock Climb |
RG, TC |
N face |
The Daft Side |
VS (4c 4b 5a 4c) |
3hrs |
» 1350mC |
1300hrs |
= |
68 °31N 31°50W |
|
|
Rock Climb |
RP, AP |
NE Face |
Poke in the hole |
VS (4b 4c 4a 5a) |
3hrs |
» 1350mC |
1300hrs |
= |
||||
|
Rock Climb |
RF, SW |
NE Face |
Toad in the hole |
HVS (5b A0 4a 5a) |
3hrs |
» 1350mC |
1300hrs |
= |
||||
|
8 |
Cauldron |
First Ascent |
RP, AP, RG, TC |
E facing gully to SE ridge |
Slap my pitch up |
AD+ (IV) |
5.5hrs, 3hrs |
» 1950mC |
0900hrs |
= |
68 °31N 31°50W |
|
|
9 |
The Nunnery: Workmate Bttrs |
Abandoned |
RF, SW |
NW Spur, left buttress |
Hard as Nails |
D+ |
0900hrs |
= |
68 °32N 31°47W |
|||
|
10 |
Serpent |
First Ascent |
TH, DH |
Central gully, SW face |
Not enough hours in a trip |
PD |
6.5hrs, 9hrs |
» 1900mC |
0800hrs |
= |
68 °34N 31°43W |
|
|
11 |
Nipple |
First Ascent |
RP, AP, TC, RF, SW |
NE Face |
AD- (III) |
5hrs, 3hrs |
» 2260mW |
0630hrs |
0300hrs |
68 °33N 31°57W |
||
|
12 |
The Actress |
First Ascent |
RP, AP, TC, RF |
Central gully, S face |
Nice work, if you can get it |
TD+ (V/6) |
13hrs, 7hrs |
» 2300mW |
0000hrs |
= |
68 °35N 31°48W |
|
|
13 |
The Nunnery |
Abandoned |
RG, DH, SW |
N facing gully, SE ridge |
Headbanger |
AD- |
6.5hrs, 6hrs (to ridge) |
2200hrs |
2000hrs |
68 °31N 31°47W |
||
|
14 |
Smurf |
First Ascent |
RG, TH |
Ski Ascent from W |
F- |
4hrs |
» 2100mM |
2300hrs |
= |
68 °38N 31°22W |
||
|
15 |
Jean-Luc |
First Ascent |
RG, TH |
Ski Ascent from NE |
F- |
2.5hrs (from Smurf), 3hrs |
» 2100mM |
- |
= |
68 °34N 31°31W |
||
|
16 |
The Slabs |
Rock Climb |
AP, SW |
S Face, lower buttress of Dome |
Sunshine Slab |
HVS (5a 4b) |
1hr |
» 1300mC |
1200hrs |
= |
68 °33N 31°47W |
|
|
Rock Climb |
AP, SW |
No rest for the wicked |
E2 (6a 5b) |
2hrs |
» 1300mC |
1400hrs |
= |
|||||
|
17 |
The Bishop |
First Ascent |
RP, TC |
SE face then SW face gully |
Snakes and Ladders |
D+ (IV/5) |
12hrs, 10hrs |
» 2350mW |
0400hrs |
= |
68 °34N 31°51W |
|
|
18 |
Bishop's Finger |
First Ascent |
RF, SW |
SW gully then corkscrew |
Lumps of it, around the back |
TD-(5aA1) |
12hrs, 6hrs |
» 2200mC |
0400hrs |
0300hrs |
68 °34N 31°51W |
|
|
19 |
Golden Tower |
First Ascent |
AP, RG |
S ridge |
Biggles Flies again |
D+(VI-) |
6hrs, 2.5hrs |
» 1950mC |
0900hrs |
0800hrs |
68 °35N 31°50W |
|
Peak heights were estimated as follows: W = using Casio altitude watch, C = comparing to peaks of known height, M = estimated from map.
We are a group of 8 people aged 23-27. Four members of the group had no expedition experience
|
|
Leader Richard Pash 27, Marketing. Working for Unilever. Previous Experience: Leader of British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1999 (BMC, MEF approved). Leader of Oxford University Expedition to Greenland 1996 (MEF, BMC, RGS approved). Deputy leader of Joint universities Spitsbergen expedition 1993 (RGS Approved). Member of YET approved expedition to Sweden ("Swedex") 1991. Member of British Schools Exploring Society (BSES) expedition to Svalbard 1990. Other climbing: Jordan (Wadi Rum), Kenya (att. N Face of Batian, Mount Kenya), Peru (Cord. Vilacnota), UK. |
|
|
Rupert Finn 27, Programmer. Working for IBM in Sydney, Australia Previous Experience: Member of British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1999. Member of Oxford University Expedition to Greenland 1996, 4 Alpine Seasons climbing to TD+/ED (include Bonnatti Pillar, Frendo Spur, Gervasutti Pillar of Mont Blanc de Tacul.). Member of the Exonian Vatnajökull Expedition to Iceland 1992 (RGS Approved). Member of British Schools Exploring Society (BSES) expedition to East Greenland 1991. Other climbing in France (Chamonix, Verdon, Fontainbleu), Spain (Picos de Europa, Pyrenees), Thailand (Crabi), Jordan (Wadi Rum), Australia (Blue Mts), UK. |
|
|
Lucy Pash 27, Sales. Working for Lagoon Games, London Previous Experience: Member of Oxford University Expedition to Greenland 1996. Member of the Joint Universities Spitsbergen Expedition 1993. Mount Kenya, N Face of Batian (attempted) Oct 1996. Other climbing: Jordan (Wadi Rum), Kenya (att. N Face of Batian, Mount Kenya), UK. |
|
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Pippa Whitehouse, 24, Geology PhD at Wolfson College, Oxford Previous Experience: Two Alpine Seasons to TD (Madier Fissure on Aiguille Dibona, Couzy route on l'M, Petit Capucin). Rockies: Petit Grepon (3500m). Other climbing: USA (Colarado, Utah), UK |
|
|
Danny Heywood 24, Geologist. Working for Soil Mechanics Ltd. Previous Experience: Member of British Lemon Mountains Expedition 1999. 3 trips to Stubai/Oztal Alps including N Face Wildspitze PD+. SPSA training. First Aid qualified. |
|
|
Nicola Faulks 23, Outdoor Instructor at Lakeside Centre, Ulverston Previous Experience: Winter Ascent of Mount Washington. Two seasons ice climbing in White Mountains (New Hampshire and Maine). 300Km Canoe Expedition, Maine 1997. Seven months Teaching English in Nepal 1999. Treks Annapurna, Langtang, S Everest. SPSA and ML Summer qualifications. Other climbing in USA (New Hampshire, Maine, Nevada), UK |
|
|
Tom Spreyer, 21, studying Politics at Durham University Climbing Experience: Mountaineering in Austrian and Italian Alps (1996), including ascents of the Similaun and Wildspitze, climbing in Slovenia (1998) including German route on the north wall of Triglav. Trekking in the Indian Himalayas with the Yorkshire schools exploring society, (1997). Other climbing in USA (Yosemite and Tuolemne meadows), Canada (Whistler), UK. |
|
|
James Thacker, 21, studying Environmental Geoscience at Sheffield Climbing Experience: Two Alpine Seasons: Frendo Spur (Chamonix), S ridge of Monts Rouges, Mettlehorn (Vallais Alps, Arolla/Zermatt). 100+ Munroes in Scotland. 5 Scottish Winter seasons. Member of Edale/Derby Mountain Rescue Team for 5 years, Single Pitch Award, ML training, MRC 1st aid training. 10 years rock climbing in UK. |
Income
|
Personal Contributions |
11698 |
|
Gino Watkins Memorial Fund |
1600 |
|
Mount Everest Foundation |
900 |
|
British Mountaineering Council UK Sports Council |
2000 |
|
Lever Brothers |
800 |
|
Andy Fanshawe Memorial Trust |
300 |
|
Lord Mayors 800th Anniversary Awards |
300 |
|
Mowden Hall Activity Village |
100 |
|
Mums Travel Fund |
200 |
|
Friends Provident Life Office |
300 |
|
Sir John Port Trust |
150 |
|
Eric Evans Memorial Fund |
300 |
|
|
|
We are very grateful to all our sponsors. Without their generous support this expedition would not have been possible.
Expenditure
|
Iceland Accommodation and Food |
1200 |
|
Iceland Internal Flights |
800 |
|
UK-Iceland Flights |
1080 |
|
Twin Otter Charter |
6310 |
|
Piper Chieftain Charter |
4600 |
|
Sea Freight |
200 |
|
Expedition Equipment |
1686 |
|
Insurance |
1400 |
|
Food and Fuel |
422 |
|
Admin/report |
900 |
|
Radio Permit |
50 |
|
|
|
Note: The cost of personal equipment is not included here. This was paid for individually by expedition members in addition to their expedition contributions (above)
In addition to our sponsors, the following companies generously supported us. We are very grateful for their help.
|
Logistics |
|
|
Samskip UK Ltd |
Free Sea freight UK-Iceland |
|
Triwall Ltd |
Free triply-corrugated cardboard boxes |
|
TET Satellite Solutions |
Free loan of satellite telephone |
|
Dave Wilson |
Free loan of radio beacon |
|
Trevor Lawson |
Free bubble wrap |
|
|
|
|
Food |
|
|
3663 (Booker Foodservice) |
Free food (porridge, custard, milk, chocolate drink, dried apricots, pasta, rice ) |
|
Van Den Bergh Foods Ltd |
Free Beanfeast, Pepperami, Flora, Cup-a-Soup |
|
Mars UK Ltd |
Free Mars Bars, Snickers, Topics |
|
Kavli Ltd |
Free Primula |
|
W Jordan (Cereals) Ltd |
Free Frueslis, Crunchy Bars and Jordans Muesli |
|
John West Foods Ltd |
Trade price John West Mackerel, Tuna and Kippers |
|
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|
|
Equipment |
|
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Burton McCall |
Free Sigg bottles and socks |
|
Lyon Equipment |
Free Julbo sunglasses |
|
Dalloz Fall Protection |
Trade price Troll and Grivel equipment |
|
Andy Bowman Climbing Equipment |
Trade price Mammut and Boreal equipment |
|
Rab Carrington Ltd |
Trade price Rab clothing |
|
Alpina UK Ltd (Glenmore Shop) |
Cheap ski hire |
|
Mac Pac (NZ) |
Expedition price gear |
|
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Medical |
|
|
Crookes Healthcare |
Free sun cream |
|
Mark Luscombe |
Clinical practice (Rotherham General Hospital) |
|
Edale Mountain Rescue Team |
Medical advice |
|
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Banking |
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HSBC Winchester |
Free banking |
