The Lemon Mountains offer outstanding opportunities for mountaineering. There still remain a large number of unclimbed peaks in the area offering both difficult snow and rock routes. Even on the Hedgehog Glacier there are still significant and challenging objectives for a further 4 week expedition, making only first ascents. Routes we sighted on some of these unclimbed peaks are also given below.
Remaining routes would be at a similar range of grades to the routes we climbed; we did not aim to pick the easiest or most difficult routes on the glacier.
A summary of peaks climbed is given in an appendix. Route descriptions are shown below.
Peak 1: Boat (15m)
66o5'N 23o5'W
Route: Ruddy 'ard (4c)
First climbed by RF, TH, DH, RP, TC, SW on 12/6/99
From the beach next to the Isafjordur Museum, approach the boat from the seaward side at its stern. Make an awkward move onto the top of the rudder; then with a foot hook into the tiller hole, reach for a small rotten hold on a piece of beading. Move powerfully to good holds at the top of the slatted wood and mantel to the summit. Descent via the ladder. This area offers further bouldering opportunities, but watch out for splinters!
Peak 2: Table Mountain (57m)
66o5'N 23o5'W
Route: Sweaty Feet (4c)
First climbed by RF, TH, RG, AP, DH, RP, TC, SW on 13/6/99
In classroom 3b of the summer hotel (Isafjordur school), select a suitable looking table. From the top surface move under the table and back to the top without touching the floor. Variation: two tables. Mattress protection advised
Peak 3: The Schoolroom (~1925m W)
68o33'N, 31o45'W
Route: West face, AD (III/IV), 6hrs up, 7hrs down
First climbed by RF, RG, TH, DH, RP, TC, AP, SW on 18/6/99
Leave skis before icefall at edge of tributary glacier. Cross glacier and ascend main snow gully on right of face. Take right spur of gully at three quarters height to shoulder. A narrow ice gully (10m, IV, avoidable further right) leads to mixed ground to gain the ridge. Mixed climbing along the ridge passing two pinnacles and a slab (III) leads to the foot of the summit block. Scramble up to a ledge and take the right of two cracks (III). Gain the summit via a further crack system (III) and a snow ridge.
Descent: Two 50m abseils gain the slanting gully which is descended to a steepening. A further abseil leads to easy ground again. Follow the gully down again to a final steepening where a traverse right across rock (30m) leads to an abseil rock. 50m abseil to glacier.
Peak 4: Coxcombe (1970m)
68o32'N 31o52'W
Route: North face, D (60o,V-), 8hrs up, 6hrs down
This route first climbed by RP,TC on 20/6/99
First Ascent of Coxcombe by Baum & Hughes in 1992. N Face of E Ridge. Grade: TD-
Ski up corrie glacier to north of peak, leaving skis at foot of face. Approach gully on left of bowl, in between large icefall to left and rock band to right. Cross bergschrund and move up steep snow (55o-60o) into gully/narrows between broken rock on LHS and main rock band on RHS. Climb four pitches up steep snow (icy) protected by small wires, ice screws and deadmen. The fourth pitch leads over snow ridge to easier rightward slanting ramp. Continue up to snow ridge at end of gully (50o). Move towards summit and large wire protection on low central rock buttress*. Then either:
(i) The Keyhole Route. 1 pitch to right of buttress. Head straight up on rock under difficult icy corner. Escape right of this to squirm through large jammed boulders (IV). Belay at cleft on ridge. Follow easy snow and rocks to summit ridge.
(ii) Standard Route. (Used in descent). Approach eastern end of summit ridge (move left from buttress* above) and move together up one of several gulleys available.
The summit block is climbed from the east (7m, V-).
Peak 5: The Dome (~1550m W)
68o33'N 31o47'W
Route: Rampant Slab (VS 5a) on SW face, 5hrs up, 2hrs down
First climbed by AP, SW, DH on 20/6/99
Approach: Scramble up easy rocks from small snow tongue to start of ramp proper.
1. (25m, 4a) Climb direct up broken ramp to small flake and ledge on right.
2. (25m, 4b) Continue up ramp following crack systems past seepage ledge to small ledge on left arete.
3. (35m, 4c) Direct up to large step taken left to right. Then past large block on right to next large step. Traverse left along black slab to weakness and climb direct to block and crack belay.
4. (35m, 5a) Finish easy ramp to large open crack, climb and surmount blocked bulge onto hanging slab. Continue up slab to three quarters height and step left into easy crack leading to large ledge.
5. Easy ground leads to summit snow dome.
Peak 6: Wildspur (~1870m W)
68o31'N 31o50'W
Route: Blancmange Wrestling (via West ridge), D (IV+), 9hrs up, 4hrs down
First climbed by RF, RG on 20/6/99
Climbs the rock buttress immediately right of the wide couloir on the south west face of the mountain. Start just right of the steep compact rock at the foot of the buttress.
Climb crack and chimney systems to regain the easier angled crest of the buttress which is followed past two awkward steps to another steepening. This is climbed on the RHS and the crest of the buttress is regained at the foot of a narrow snow ridge (six pitches, IV+, some loose Wildspur S Face rock).
The snow ridge is followed in fine situations to easy rocks which lead to the summit ridge (two pitches, II). Easy snow (up to 60o) leads up the ridge to the summit.
Peak 7: Rock routes on The Nob (~1350m C)
68o31'N 31o50'W
Descent from these climbs is by two long abseils from the top of 'Poke in the Hole'.
1. Poke in the Hole (VS 5a) FA: AP, RP on 24/6/99
Start at the big corner to the left of the lowest part of 'The Nodule'.
1. 4b. Climb layback crack up corner and move over easy roof to belay to right of slab.
2. 4c. Move left over slab and up easy ground to large stance.
3. 4b. Climb over easy ground and up broken corner towards obvious hanging chimney (belay 3m below chimney).
4. 5a. Climb chimney and easy loose ground to summit.
2. The Daft Side (VS 5a) FA: RG, TC on 24/6/99
Start near the lowest point of the SE face of 'The Nodule', 10m right of the prominent corner of 'Poke in the Hole'.
1. 4c. A fine flake crack leads to the roof. Traverse right on slabs (seepage) to pass the roof on its right. Easy ground to stance.
2. 4b. Climb a thin crack left of the corner, moving back into the corner where the angle steepens. Continue more easily up and rightwards until a thin crack going straight up onto a slab.
3. 5a. Climb leftwards up the slab towards the left arete then back right with steep rock above and below to enter a cleft behind a partially detached block. Squirm up this to stand on the block. A short wide crack (crux) leads to a niche below intimidating ground.
4. 4c. Move rightwards up the ramp for a few feet then escape horizontally rightwards into a large corner which is followed to easy ground.
3. Toad in the Hole (HVS 5b/A0) FA: RF, SW on 24/6/99
Start at a sloping corner, 20m left of prominent corner of 'Poke in the Hole'.
1. 5b. Follow the sloping corner to a vertical layback crack. Layback to roof then traverse left into narrow crack system following R sloping crack above roof to small belay ledge.
2. 5a & A0. Follow vertical hand jam crack to easier ground and corner ledge.
3. 4a. Easy crack system up and right to prominent roof.
5a. Gain entry to hanging chimney. Follow to top.
Peak 8: The Cauldron (~1950m C)
68o31'N 31o50'W
Route: Slap my pitch up (South East ridge), AD+ (IV), 5.5hrs up, 3hrs down
First climbed by RP, AP, RG, TC on 25/6/99
Ascend the right most of the easy couloirs in the glacier bowl to the col. Turn right and scramble up mixed terrain to a level section, a narrow snow ridge ('Credit Card Ridge'), which is followed to a steepening. Continue up mixed terrain, moving right to avoid difficulties on the crest of the ridge, to a further steepening. Three rock pitches lead from here to the summit.
Peak 9: The Nunnery, Workmate Buttress (???m C)
68o32'N 31o47'W
Route: Hard as Nails (on NW spur), est. TD/ED (D as climbed, 4hrs up, 3hrs down)
First attempted by RF, SW on 25/6/99
Climb the snow couloir (50o) until left trident snow field (250m). Ascend chimney system off left trident spur of snow field to snow crest and the summit. Climbed to second pitch traverse off left trident snow spur on first attempt.
Peak 10: The Serpent (~1900m C)
68o34'N 31o43'W
Route: Not Enough Hours in a Trip (SW face), PD-, 6.5hrs up, 9hrs down
First climbed by DH, TH on 25/6/99
Climb the large central gully in its entirety, arranging rock protection in either side, although the gully is most easily climbed in the centre. At the top of the gully (a large rock can be used for protection) cross the snow saddle to the left. Climb broken loose ground then snow slopes to summit (corniced).
Peak 11: Nipple (~2260m W)
68o33'N 31o57'W
Route: NE face, AD- (III), 5hrs up, 3hrs down
First climbed by RP, AP, SW, RF, TC on 26/6/99
Reach foot of large snow face and cross bergschrund at LHS. Continue up this side of the face (snow, 45o/50o). The snow face eventually turns into a wide couloir leading to a rock buttress. This is passed on the right, leading into a final snow couloir (45o/50o). At the top of this couloir move left onto easy ground and a little snowy notch in the summit ridge. From here a pitch leads up and across the rocky summit ridge, on the same side as the NE face, behind a flake to another ledge/notch and up an awkward slabby move to the very small summit.
Peak 12: The Actress (~2300m W)
68o35'N 31o48'W
Route: Nice Work If You Can Get It (S face), TD+ (Scottish V,6), 13hrs up, 7hrs down
First climbed by AP, TC, RP, RF on 28/6/99
Start up broad open gully trending left into central summit gully proper (250m). Continue up steepening snow to first ice pitch at obvious narrowing (170m).
Peak 13: The Nunnery (???m C)
68o31'N 31o47'W
Route: Headbanger (NE Face of E ridge, not to Nunnery summit), AD-, 6.5hrs up, 5.5hrs down
First climbed by RG, DH, SW on 28/6/99
Takes the narrow twisting gully on the left side of the face to the summit ridge. A continuation along the ridge to the summit itself would probably be around TD on loose rock.
Start just right of the icefall at the back of the glacier bowl. Cross the bergschrund and move up and leftwards to reach the foot of the gully. Follow the gully direct except for a frozen waterfall at half height which is avoided by two pitches of loose but easy rock to the left. The gully is rejoined above this steep section and followed to Nunnery NE Face the summit ridge.
Peak 14: Smurph (~2100m M)
68o38'N 31o22'W
Route: Long Nights Journey into Day, F-, 4hrs up
First climbed by TH, RG on 30/6/99
Peak 15: Jean-Luc (~2100m M)
GR: 68o34'N, 31o31'W
Route: Long Nights Journey into Day, F-, 2.5hrs from Smurph
First climbed by RG, TH on 30/6/99
Ski Tour Route to Smurf and Jean-Luc (Peaks 14 and 15)
| A | Base camp |
| B | Surface stream at confluence of Hedgehog and Fredriksbourg glaciers |
| D | Area of large rock fall below the Serpent |
| E | Crevasse field |
| H | Bivi site |
| I | The Smurph |
| J | Rounded undulating ridge |
| K | Jean Luc |
| L | Crevassed descent route |
| M | Crevasse field |
| N | Crevasse field |
Peak 16: Rock climbs on 'The Slabs' (lower buttress of 'The Dome')
68o33'N 31o47'W
First climbed by AP, SW on 1/7/99
a) No Rest for the Wicked (E2 6a)
Start at the obvious offwidth corner at the right hand side of the lowest point of the buttress.
1. 6a. Layback up offwidth crack for 10m to recess. From here climb slab direct. At its narrowest step right onto steeper ground, move up to continuation of offwidth, and finish with hand traverse across hanging slab into steep gully.
2. 5a. Climb slab direct from belay to steep broken corner and easy ground to top.
b) Sunshine Slab (HVS 5a)
Start right of offwidth corner at right hand side of lowest point of buttress.
1. 5a. Climb vertical crack onto slab face. Continue straight up slab to ledge system.
2. 4b. Easy line through steep broken corner and summit.
Peak 17: Bishop (~2350m W)
68o34'N 31o51'W
Route: Snakes and Ladders (SE Face then SW face), D+ (Scottish IV,5), 12hrs up, 10hrs down
First climbed by TC, RP on 3/7/99
Top section of route taken marked in red, with an abseil into the main gulley above 'a'.
The gully system above 'a' would provide a challenging direct route: it is a series of ice falls and snow ramps (min. grade TD?). It went out of condition before we could attempt it.
Extra rope needed for fixed abseil. Approach mountain from SE on steep corrie glacier. Climb glacier to just below the obvious gully which leads to the pinnacle of Bishops Finger. Climb the next gully left of this which arrives at LHS of large snowfield (Scottish II). Continue up the snow field and take the RH gully. Follow gully (Scottish II) to ridge (three pitches, rock scramble at top). Traverse into small rock gully, up several steps (II) to small snowfield. 40m abseil here into main gully, just above a large icefall, leaving rope fixed for return. Proceed up gully on easy snow and up icefall over chockstone (1 pitch Scottish IV,5) to summit ridge. Easily to summit.
Descent: Reverse route, including eight abseils.
Peak 18: Bishops Finger (~2200m C)
68o34'N 31o51'W
Route: Lumps of it round the back, TD- (V+/A1), 12hrs up, 6hrs down
First climbed by RF, SW on 3/7/99
Ascend crevassed glacier (SE) to obvious gully splitting Bishop and Finger. Ascend gully (40o) to col. Traverse col snow arete to rock band. Two mixed pitches (II and III) following the rock on the left of the snow lead to rock corner with jammed overhanging chockstone. This leads to L trending corner. Follow rock corner left (V) to steep corner. Easier rock (IV) leads to left of corner. Another corner and slab (IV) lead up to ledge below summit. Follow LH crack (V+ and A1) to second ledge. Traverse ledge R and ascend exposed slab around corner (IV) to summit.
Descent: Five abseils lead to col of snow gully.
Peak 19: The Golden Tower (~1950m C)
68o35'N 31o50'W
Route: Biggles flies again (S ridge) D+ (VI-), 6hrs up, 2.5hrs down
First climbed by AP,RG on 4/7/99
Takes the arete right of the central gully. Approach over loose rocks at the foot of the arete from the Charlotte glacier. Start at the right side of the toe of the buttress, 20m left of a loose gully.
1. V. Climb a crack for 25m, moving left to a large ledge.
2. IV+. Climb a short crack above then easier ground trending rightwards to join a loose gully.
3. III. Climb the gully to belay on loose flakes at the foot of a boot sized crack.
4. V-. Climb the crack, also using holds and protection on the face just to the left, to a large ledge.
5. IV. Climb cracked wall and slab above to easier ground and large ledge belay at the foot of a short wall.
6. III+. Avoid the wall on the right then move back left to climb a crack in another short wall to a large platform before a 2m gap in the arete, 'The Gash'.
7. V+, crux pitch. Climb down to a jammed block in the gash. Leave this to climb a wide crack (strenuous) on the far side of the gash. This is followed by a rightwards trending crack (loose, poor footholds) and easy ground.
8. III+. Continue up easy ground and take a crack on the right of a steep tower to belay on a sloping ledge.
9. V. Move right to a hanging slab and hand traverse to a corner. Up the corner to half height and traverse right on slab to jam crack. Follow this to easy ground and belay above a large ledge.
10. VI-, the beastie! 30m above the ledge is a short overhanging corner. Climb cracks and slabs to reach the corner which is climbed using a wide crack at its back (short, safe and strenuous). Scramble up a few metres to belay on a good ledge.
11. V-. From here move up obvious left hand crack leading onto a slab. Follow a series of slabs to finish up a finger crack to a good belay ledge, keeping left of a wide crack.
12. V. Climb the nose at the right hand end of the belay ledge to another ledge and a similar nose to a large ledge below the final wall. Climb the crack at the left end of the wall, moving rightwards to pull onto a slab above. Big ledges for belay.
13. II. Scramble to summit snows.
Descent: Abseil the route, avoiding the bottom two pitches with one abseil down the loose gully.
Big Tom
Up beyond the Arctic Circle where the land is clothed in ice,
Where the airy rocky ridges and the deep couloirs entice,
And the mountains rear up steeply with their tall fingers of rock,
There you'll find the Lemon Mountains where the hardest climbers flock,
Sir Bonington himself, Tim of the Arctic, Captain Splash,
And even Rupes the gopster smeared with last weeks corned beef hash.
But there beneath the Actress stands the hardest of them all,
His jaw is set, his eyes are bagged, he's really rather tall,
His partner (who is cool as ice) is relatively small,
From glacier to mountaintop you hear his Elk like call.
He is so imperturbable; he really is the cream,
When the rocks fall all about him you will never hear him scream,
His friends and fans from far and wide have never seen him hurt,
He wears a yellow buffalo; they call him Tom the Snyrt.
The Actress leans above him, steep and narrow is her slit,
But lean and mean Toms sturdy team stride forth and enter it.
A winding tongue of snow and ice falls easily beneath,
Their biting picks, their mighty kicks, their crampons pointy teeth.
Tom's iron will upon the hill will get them to the top,
"Climb on my men" he calls to them, Big Tom, he will not stop.
The gully falls beneath them, it drops by in a flash,
The hardest ice they found thus far did fall to Captain Splash.
Then suddenly: "My god that's steep!" cries Richard as he starts to weep,
And falling now upon his face, "Oh help, we're lost, she's got us beat!"
The rock leans out on either side, so menacingly blank,
And in the slit the ice so steep, and dark and cold and dank.
But Tom the Snyrt, he will not stop, he is a steady chap.
With bold courageous voice he cries out "Lead on Andy Cap!"
Inspired by his hero's faith, young Andy takes the lead,
They only have four ice screws but that's all he seems to need,
And steadily with perfect calm he climbs that steep icefall,
His front points are so sharp and firm they never slip at all.
Tom follows with such grace and ease this near vertical slope,
This mountaineer who knows no fear, he hardly needs the rope.
Now Gop man follows up behind, he's frightened by the drop,
He's whimpering and gripped with fear but Big Tom will not stop.
Dick tries to climb but soon he falls, he finds it all so very hard,
He should use loops to hold his wrists, but he is a complete retard.
Now Andy's scared, his legs are weak, his axe picks start to flop,
The Actress looms up steep and hard but still Tom will not stop.
So taking up the ropes sharp end,
Tom leads on up above his friend,
The wall above, it does impend,
"Oh Actress will you never end?"
Cries Tom in the early morning light.
His axe it swings, his pick is sharp,
His lip is curled, his brow is dark.
His point comes down and bites in deep,
And up the bulge he starts to creep,
Big Tom now fights his greatest fight.
A snarl and grunt,
A flashing eye,
A shard of ice comes swishing by.
With iron calves,
And shining axe,
And a team who all have filled their kaks,
Tom moves on bravely yard by yard,
To climb that wall of ice so hard.
The rope it snakes out round the bend,
Until it's nearly at the end.
The climb absorbs Tom mind and soul, so focused is he on that cleft,
His partners cries all pass him by until he catches "Two yards left!"
The Actress thinks she's beaten him, she's caught him on the hop,
He's out of rope and out of gear, but still Tom will not stop!
His hawk like eyes shine from beneath his smooth and shiny hat,
And soon he spies a little spike from which to hang some manky tat,
Ringing out from wall to wall Tom laughs his mighty laugh,
And the Actress knows she's beaten, as Tom shakes his mighty shaft.
The climbing follows simply now, Tom moves up with great style,
And as his team stands on the top they muse a little while,
That Big Tom with his hooded brow looks not unlike Blackadder,
And gop man sleeps upon a rock while emptying his bladder.
They rope back down and ski to camp where down they all do flop,
Except big Tom who gazes round,
Another peak he now has found,
With treacherously steep loose ground,
Will Big Tom ever stop?